Pinot noir is invariably known as one of the most difficult varieties for growers and winemakers to master. However, it is also one of the most popular red varieties in Australia, loved for its light-medium body and ability to pair well with a range of foods.
James Halliday once said: “The first problem with pinot is that it is the most reluctant traveller of all the classic grape varieties.” However when it settles in, it does so for the long-run. Pinot noir grows best in cool to moderate climates and can be found in multiple Australian wine regions, including Tasmania, the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Pemberton in Western Australia, the Adelaide Hills in South Australia and more.
Below we get to know three styles of Australian pinot noir from Scotchmans Hill in Geelong, and Medhurst and Yering Station in the Yarra Valley. Ranging in price from $45 to $130, each of these pinot noir wines deserves a place on your table.
Medhurst
Winemaker Rohan Smith says: I love that this incredible variety expresses itself so differently depending on region, site and vintage – this opens a vast array of stylistic possibilities in the winery. The Yarra Valley is such an amazing place to grow and make pinot noir and this wine displays classic varietal characteristics and is powerful but with a fine structure.
H. What are the challenges when it comes to producing pinot noir wine?
RS. Pinot noir is so sensitive to different soil types, site aspect, row orientation, pruning strategy, canopy management techniques (and thus light exposure), crop levels and many other factors – so quite challenging! It is also the reason that producing pinot noir is so satisfying. It is an old adage, but great pinot noir is made in the vineyard.
H. How do you approach the winemaking process?
RS. We carefully assess every aspect of our winemaking each year and decisions such as the quantity of whole bunches compared with destemmed fruit, extraction methods and percentage of new oak are all aspects that are tweaked slightly depending on the nature of the growing season and the ripeness and flavours of the fruit that comes in from the vineyard.
Wine to try
2022 Medhurst Estate Pinot Noir
Bright crimson with a brilliant purple hue, the delicate floral and red fruited aromatics leap out of the glass and the palate is full of dark cherry, pomegranate, cranberry and spice framed with fresh acidity and fine, silky tannin. This is a powerful wine with a long finish.Best enjoyed: We suggest finding one the many fantastic pinot noir glasses available and serving this wine at about 15–16°C. At this temperature you will see the delicate floral aromatics and pinot noir flavours at their best! Pair with confit duck with dauphinoise potatoes and green beans.
RRP $55 | Drink to 2030 | Shop this wine | medhurstwines.com.au
Scotchmans Hill
Chief winemaker Robin Brockett says: Pinot noir is the greatest challenge for a winemaker, as it delivers in spades both risk and reward. There is nowhere to hide with this variety, and you must be on your A game. 2022 was a cool yet well-balanced year that enabled us to make this special wine. Those with patience will be greatly rewarded as the wine ages and a seamless, velvety palate will ensue.
H. What are the challenges when it comes to producing pinot noir wine?
RB. Challenges with pinot noir always start in the vineyard. Small differences in the season have profound impact on the resulting quality. No two years are the same. In the winery we are always conscious of respecting the fruit that has arrived, making sure the wine isn’t over extracted.
H. How do you approach the winemaking process?
RB. I wish to see complexity and balance in the wine with many different artefacts but with no one thing dominating. We aim for balance in the vineyard between canopy and yield. We use whole clusters in the ferment judicially and take a soft approach to cap management. The use of both wild ferments and malolactic fermentation coupled with time in oak delivers the perfect style for our wines.
Wine to try
2022 Scotchmans Hill Pinot Noir
“Clones MV6, 114 and 115; 85 per cent de-stemmed, 15 per cent whole bunches; five-day cold soak, seven-day wild ferment; matured for 12 months in new and used French barriques. The fragrant bouquet picks up the vinification with typical Brockett precision and length. If left to mature for a few years, spices will build and the finish grow further.” – James Halliday. 95 points and value rosette.Best enjoyed: Pinot noir can be enjoyed all year round – whether it’s a balmy summer day or a cold winter night. It's the ultimate food wine, so we suggest enjoying over the summer months with grilled pesto crusted salmon with a green country salad.
RRP $45 | Drink to 2037 | Shop this wine | scotchmans.com.au
Yering Station
Chief winemaker Brendan Hawker says: This wine epitomises time, place and effort in the purest of forms. Carefully and intentionally barrel selected from seven different parcels of pinot noir, the process of blending this wine resulted in a truly harmonious balance that still manages to reflect the inherent, intricate detail within each singular parcel of fruit.
H. What are the challenges when it comes to producing pinot noir wine?
BH. It’s the temperamental nature of pinot noir that makes it so alluring! In the vineyard, the growing season dictates how we best manage each pinot site. Wetter seasons will be managed quite differently to our warmer years – and being aware of weather conditions allows us to be as preemptive as possible in our management.
H. How do you approach the winemaking process?
BH. Our winery is essentially purpose-built for pinot noir production. We have lots of small open fermenters, which allow us to keep individual parcels of fruit separate, and even break up larger blocks. For our Reserve pinot noir specifically, grapes were fermented in small open fermenters, hand-plunged or pumped over, then barrel matured in French oak puncheons (10 per cent new) for 10 months.
Wine to try
2022 Yering Station Reserve Pinot Noir
A light, bright ruby red. Ultra fragrant with its aromas of red cherries, cranberry, blood oranges, rose petal, nutmeg shavings and a dusting of cinnamon. And while it's light on its feet, the flavours keep building on the palate, which finishes with silky, persistent tannins on the lingering finish.Best enjoyed: Enjoy this wine in good company with good food – a classic roast duck would be my choice. The rich, gamey flavours complement the red cherry fruits and earthy undertones of this pinot, while its acidity conversely helps cut through the richness of the meat. A wild mushroom risotto or any other umami-packed dish would also be a great pairing.
RRP $130 | Drink to 2034+ | Shop this wine | yering.com
