Things to do in Hawke's Bay NZ
Face pressed to the airplane window as you descend into Napier, taking in the sweep of the coastline, braided rivers and verdant landscape while sucking on one of those little lollies the Air New Zealand cabin crew still hands out after all these years to stop your ears popping. I recommend the red ones. I’ve been road-testing them since I was a kid.
Nau mai, haere mai! You’re in Te Matau-a-Maui or Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand’s second largest and oldest wine region, where vines were first planted by French Missionaries in 1851. Along with 11 other wine growing regions including Bordeaux, the Napa Valley and Adelaide, Hawke’s Bay has recently been awarded the accolade of a ‘Great Wine Capital’. It’s renowned the world over for the quality of its wines, from bright and detailed white wines, including some of the country’s best chardonnays, to world-class syrah and the ageworthy cabernet blends from the famed terroir of the Gimblett Gravels.
Where to stay in Hawke's Bay
Where to stay, I hear you ask? There are a bunch of options: Napier, with all its art deco goodness; Hastings, with its handy central location and plethora of eating options; or the groovy Havelock North. Or something quieter and more remote?
Whichever you choose, your first pre-departure port of call will have been to visit the Hawke's Bay Wine and Hawke's Bay NZ websites to scope out their ‘Plan your Stay’ pages, which give a great rundown on all the accommodation options.
Personally, I love the cottages at Craggy Range, for the wines, fantastic restaurant and access to the Tuki Tuki River to go fly-fishing. Or, for something really special, the luxurious Rosewood Cape Kidnappers retreat in the east of the region is hard to beat.
Hawke's Bay wine tours
Getting around is super easy, and hiring a car is a perfect option. But if you’d rather be driven around by someone who knows the region better than anyone and can get you into those hard-to-nail-down appointments, is your man. Gordon spent many years as winemaker for Esk Valley, and I can personally vouch for his private wine tours. There is a burgeoning lo-fi scene in Te Matau-a-Maui and I recommend seeking out Halcyon Days, Amoise Wines, Kenzie Wines and The Supernatural Wine Co. These are beautiful wines made by beautiful people, so keep an eye out for them on your travels or drop them a line to try and tee up a visit.
Wineries in Hawke's Bay
Start your day with breakfast at one of the region’s many cafes. Cupple in Hastings has great coffee, and delicious pastries can be found at rockstar bakery Ya Bon. Another great option in Hastings is Rosina Eatery. In Havelock North, Hawthorne Coffee Roastery & Espresso Bar is also ace. Whip up to Taradale after breakfast for a tasting at Church Road. There are several tasting experiences available so you can sample the breadth of their award-winning wines, including the stellar Tom range.
Next, it’s a 10-minute drive into Napier city to say g’day to Tony Bish at his awesome Urban Winery, inside the old art deco National Tobacco Company building. Chardonnay is the name of the game here and Tony is an absolute gun at it – you can see the different egg-shaped concrete and French oak fermenters he uses to make his chardonnays at the cellar door.
With your boot full of Tony Bish chardonnay, it’s off to Hawke's Bay’s oldest winery, Mission Estate, for your next tasting assignment. As well as top-notch sparkling and reserve offerings, the food here is excellent and there’s nothing nicer on a sunny day than grabbing a bite to eat at one of the outdoor tables.
For another lunch option, jump back in the car and drive half-an-hour southeast to the seaside subregion of Te Awanga, perhaps with a brief stop at the amazing Atea a Rangi Star Compass on the way to learn a little about traditional navigation, and head for Elephant Hill Wines. Make sure you try winemaker Hugh Crichton’s awesome Salomé Chardonnay – it’s a fantastic match for chef Ben Cruse’s Asian-inspired menu.
After lunch, pop around the corner to visit local legend Tim Turvey and Australian-born chief winemaker Matt Kirby at Clearview Estate. There’s quality across the range here, with some stunning reserve reds and chardonnay.
It’s time to head back now, but before you turn in for the night, pop into Decibel Wines on the main street of Hastings for a visit before dinner at Michael Henley MW’s cracking little wine bar, Cellar 495. Offering small, shared plates and a wicked range of local and international wines, the place is a gem.
Hawke's bay to do
Today, you’ll focus on the celebrated Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa subregions. After a hearty breakfast, head to Trinity Hill for cracking single-vineyard offerings and wines ‘off the gravels’ before heading a few kilometres up the road to visit both Sileni Estate and Paritua on your way to Deliciosa in Havelock North for a bite to eat.
While you’re in town, you must go to the amazing Smith & Sheth cellar door. There are some superb wines here from Smith & Sheth, Pyramid Valley and Lowburn Ferry, and plenty of tasting experiences including the amazing, immersive Heretaunga Wine Studio.
It’s just six minutes’ drive east to the iconic Te Mata Estate, established in 1896 and one of Hawke's Bay's originals. There’s a stellar range of regional wines on offer including famous names such as the Elston Chardonnay, Bullnose Syrah and of course the Coleraine – one of New Zealand’s most famous wines. End the day on a high note at the epic Craggy Range for a late afternoon tasting, a wander around the beautiful grounds and an early dinner at their restaurant, which consistently plates up some of the best food in the region.
That’s a busy couple of days for sure, but here are a couple of final recommendations and suggestions if you have the time. Drive up to the top of the beautiful Te Mata Peak to soak in the beautiful views and get the lay of the land. While you are hopping around local wine bars, keep an eye out for wines from Bilancia, Easthope Family Winegrowers and Radburnd Cellars. They were some of the best wines I tried during my most recent visit to the region.
For some life-affirming outdoor action, organise a night tour at the incredible Cape Sanctuary, New Zealand’s largest privately funded and volunteer-powered conservation project, to see kiwi, takahe, and all manner of amazing species in the wild. Phew, that was a hectic couple of days. But, as you fly out of Napier, no doubt your face is once again pressed to the window, but this time you're planning your return. Te Matau-a-Maui does that to you. Haere pai atu, hoki pai mai.
