William Downie

One wine rules William Downie: pinot noir. Stints in Burgundy and De Bortoli in the Yarra Valley during the early ’00s contributed to his respect and love for the variety. However, he always believed Gippsland was the place in Australia where it can truly shine. Bill and wife Rachel Needoba moved to their Yarragon property, Guendulain Farm, in ’07 and set about planting a high-density vineyard, 10,000 vines per ha. Today, the site covers 2ha. He leases 4 ha, including Bull Swamp and Camp Hill, all made at a Warrigal winery. Kevin Collett and Charlie Brindle work alongside him in the vineyards. 'I don’t have to talk about pinot noir,' William says. 'It’s the differences between the wines that make them interesting.' Given he is one of the most talented and thoughtful winemakers, there’s plenty to consider. -JANE FAULKNER